There’s nothing greater than Holy Week, Seville’s biggest celebration of the year. Between Palm Sunday and Easter, 60 processions will take place. So many cofradías and pasos invade the streets simultaneously that you’ll need to have a look at the schedule to plan your route.
After living the Semana Santa for a few years now, I’ve asked many times to friends what the highlights are. What I mean by highlight is “where should you be to get the most of this or that procession?”.
I’m overwhelmed by the amount of different answers I still get. Thus, I decided some time ago that I just had to learn from my experience and pick my favorite moments and spots!
And that’s exactly what this is about. A selection of my best picks for each and every day of Holy Week. Seville is full of action and you’ll be glad to know where to go and what to see. Because, trust me, you won’t be able to see everything everywhere!
However, take into account that sometimes processions suffer delays or are cancelled because of the rain, so these recommendations may not be 100% accurate. Moreover, I have included different suggestions for each day, but some of them may happen at the same time – you’ll have to make a choice.
The suggestions are based on the order and times of each day according to the 2023 official information.
The Cathedral and Giralda Tower are closed to visitors in the afternoon during Semana Santa.
Secure your visit getting your skip-the-line tickets in advance! You’ll access the Cathedral, the Giralda and the Iglesia del Salvador.
Seville residents set out early in the morning to tour the churches and see the prepared floats. Locals put on their best clothes because according to tradition, “if you don’t wear a suit on Palm Sunday, you’ll lose your hands”.
This is one of the most important days, and the beginning of Holy Week. Therefore, expect this day to be one of the most crowded ones, with lots of families, children and elders everywhere.
Monday is a sober day, but you can enjoy magnificent brotherhoods in the streets of Seville. From the evening onwards, the public is somewhat lower and you can comfortably experience such charismatic images as the Vera Cruz or the pasos of El Museo.
A day of processions of great tradition and devotion in the city, such as the Dulce Nombre, full of children among its ranks, the Candelaria or the beautiful Cristo de los Estudiantes, which exits from the University.
The following day is a public holiday, and so on Wednesday the streets are crammed with spectators watching the processions.
This is the eve of the emotional and exciting La Madrugá so it’s day with lots of people and a lively atmosphere in the streets. During the morning, women wear traditional black dress with a mantilla as a symbol of mourning.
It’s by far the most emotionally intense night, with Seville’s more revered processions continuing throughout the night.
The most renowned brotherhoods hold their procession, which begin at midnight and finish on the Friday morning. The overwhelming silence compensates for the cold of the Seville night. And you can always conclude your experience with a hot chocolate and churros.
Even though it’s really difficult to make a choice during the most important day of the Holy Week, Seville raves about…
Another big day of Holy Week in Seville. This is a great day to admire some phenomenal misterios, such as El Cristo de la Buena Muerte, La Carretería or Las Tres Caídas among others.
Saturday is the quietest day as processions have the lowest public attendance of the entire week. It’s a sad day as it anticipates the end of Holy Week.
Take into account that in 2023 there’s a special event called Santo Entierro Grande. It involves 15 additional pasos that you can see throughout the city center, but the best areas are:
The Santo Entierro Grande there are additional changes in the routes of the regular processions that take place on Saturday. So my recommendations for 2023 are:
Enjoying the brotherhoods processioning through the streets near their churches is a highly recommended experience because it’s probably when they shine the most.
Gaining popularity, followers, brothers and sisters and donations helps, consequently, to have more resources for their social work of charity and, therefore, to improve the conditions of the most disadvantaged in their neighborhoods. That is why they try to give their best, especially at the exit of the temple that houses them, and the spectacle is truly admirable.
As a result, one of the highest point of a procession is when the float exits and enters the home church. Even if you’re not religious, it’s difficult not to be moved because the atmosphere is super vital and poignant.
If you want to watch a salida (when the procession comes out of the church), you need to get there about 2-3 hours in advance to secure a good spot.
This article is part of a complete tutorial on Semana Santa in Seville where you can read all the information you need to organize your experience during this magical and unique week.
Here is a complete summary of all the guide:
1. Semana Santa dates in Seville
2. What are Seville’s Holy Week processions?
3. Easter activities: daily schedule of Semana Santa processions
4. Holy Week Seville: What to see each day
5. Live Semana Santa in Seville as locals do
6. 9 tips to make the most out of Easter in Seville
7. When to visit the home churches during Easter (Seville)
8. How to survive Holy Week in Seville with children
9. Semana Santa hermandades (brotherhoods)
10. Semana Santa glossary